Ancient City of Hegra: AlUla’s Main Attraction
Are you planning to visit Hegra in AlUla? Curious to learn more about history of this ancient Nabataean city in Saudi Arabia? You’re in the right place.
Hegra, also known as al-Hijr or Mada’in Salih, lies in the northwestern region of Saudi Arabia. In the first century, it was once a key trading center on the Ancient Incense Route and a significant city to facilitate other Red Sea trade for the Nabataean Empire.
Often called the “Sister City of Petra,” Hegra is home to hundreds of gigantic monolith tombs that resemble those in Petra.
There are tons of different things to do in Hegra, including visiting the Nabatean tombs—the most iconic one being the Lonely Castle—checking out meeting halls called Diwans, exploring religious sites and discovering the carvings of ancient deities, riding hot air balloons, and marveling at the region’s surreal landscape.
Also Read: 10 Best things to do in AlUla, Saudi Arabia
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Brief History of Hegra
Hegra, also known as Mada’in Salih, was once a thriving city inhabited by the Nabataeans.
The city dates back to the first century CE and served as a significant trading hub along the Incense Route, connecting the Arabian Peninsula with the Mediterranean.
Research tells us that the Nabataeans built Hegra to deal with the trade and traffic from the Red Sea. Hegra traded in frankincense, spices, and myrrh.
Nabataeans were Arabs who spoke some version of the Arabic language and used a script derived from the Aramaic alphabet.
The Nabataeans carved monumental tombs into sandstone cliffs with intricate carvings and inscriptions in Hegra. Qasr al-Farid, or the Lonely Castle, is an iconic tomb in Hegra that has now become the poster child of this beautiful world heritage site.
Hegra vs. Petra
Readers often ask me how Hegra is different from Petra. Based on extensive research and travels, here’s my answer.
While Petra in Jordan is undoubtedly more famous, Hegra has a unique charm, mainly because it was kept secret for so long.
Both cities were built by the Nabataeans and share architectural similarities, but each has distinct features that set them apart.
- Petra is older than Hegra by a couple of centuries. Hegra also has fewer tombs than Petra. Because Hegra is younger and smaller, it is often considered Petra’s “little sister.”
- Hegra’s tombs were carved into more durable sandstone and, therefore, are in a better state of preservation. The best part, however, is that Hegra’s tombs are dated, and their inscriptions often tell us who was buried in them. We don’t see that in Petra.
- The carvings on Hegra’s tombs are simpler than those in Petra. Petra’s tombs are filled with floral ornamentation and are believed to have been the epitome of Nabataean architecture. Historians theorize that the ornamentation was reserved for the capital city, Petra, where most royals lived.
- However, archeologists have found that the carvings in Hegra are more varied and eclectic. They are believed to have been inspired by the ancient Dadan and Lihyan people who lived in AlUla before the Nabataeans.
- In Petra, you can see evidence of a complex water management system that the Nabataeans created. However, in Hegra, that’s not the case because groundwater was just 10m below the surface level; hence, there are many wells and only a few Nabataean-era water channels.
Best Places to Visit in Hegra, Al-Ula
Apart from visiting the iconic Qasr al-Farid Tomb, there are several other exciting things to do in Hegra. We have listed all of them here.
Qasr al-Farid or The Lonely Castle
The first and absolutely the best thing to see in Hegra (and all of AlUla) is the Lonely Castle or Qasr al-Farid.
Qasr al-Farid is the most famous tomb in Hegra. This colossal monolithic tomb stands isolated from the rest – that’s why the name.
Constructed in the 1st century CE, Qasr al-Farid is 4 stories tall and has an attractive facade with 4 pillars (2 was usually the norm in Hegra’s tombs). Like most other tombs, the carving was done top to bottom (a traditional Nabataean architectural technique).
The facade features a headless carving of an eagle, believed to have been a pagan symbol for the polytheistic Nabataeans.
It is also called the Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza, because that is who it was built for. Unfortunately, the tomb was never completed, and Lihyan was never buried there.
Qasr al-Bint Tombs
Qasr al-Bint, also known as Jabal Banat, is a collection of 31 tombs that feature many decorative elements, such as human faces, monsters, birds, and animals.
Banat translates to “daughters” in Arabic. So Jabal Banat was actually a collection of tombs for women, which is quite interesting.
Jabal Ithlib
Jabal Ithlib, located at the highest point in Hegra, was an important religious site for the Nabataeans. It features several rock-cut chambers and niches with sculptures of pagan gods and goddesses, providing rich insights into this ancient civilization’s spiritual practices.
It is also home to the Diwan, a large ceremonial hall carved into the rock that offers a glimpse into the social and political life of the Nabataeans. In the past, politicians, traders, and religious leaders gathered at the Diwan for royal banquets and political meetings.
As you walk further on and climb the rock a bit at the end of the passage, look to your left to see a water channel that once led rain and spring water into a cistern. Nabataeans were masters of water management, and this is a small example of that.
Hinat’s Reconstruction
Want to know how the Nabataeans looked? You’re in luck at Hegra.
Hegra has a small visitor’s center where you can see the facial reconstruction of a Nabataean woman, Hinat, who lived in the 1st century.
Hinat was an influential lady because she had an entire tomb dedicated to herself. The inscription on her tomb read something like this, “This is the tomb of Hinat, the daughter of Wahbu and her descendants.”
Several interesting artifacts, such as textiles, vegetable remains, leather, bones, hair, and skin, were found inside Hinat’s tomb.
★ Pro Tip: At the visitor’s center, you can buy small gifts like fridge magnets and bookmarks. For more, check out our detailed AlUla Souvenir Guide.
How to get around Hegra?
The best way to explore Hegra is on a guided tour. The tombs of Hegra are pretty spread out, so you cannot walk between the sites. Also, you are not allowed to drive your own car inside the archeological area.
So, the only option is to book a guided tour, which you can do on the official Experience AlUla website or a reliable, third-party website like Get Your Guide or Viator.
Experience AlUla’s website offers the entire gamut of tours at prices lower than those of third-party websites. The only issue I had with them was with the cancellation dates—you need to cancel at least three days in advance.
In contrast, on Get Your Guide or Viator, you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance. Also, the cancellation process on Experience AlUla is not very straightforward—you need to send a refund request via a contact form and all that.
Best Guided Tours for Hegra
Guided tours in Hegra usually include admission to the archeological site, transportation via an AC coach, and the services of an English tour guide.
The cheapest tours are priced at around 95 SAR (about 25 USD) and can go up to 1000 SAR (270 USD) for vintage car rides and 1300 SAR (345 USD) for balloon rides.
Here are my favorite guided tours in Hegra, Al-Ula.
- This 3-Hour Guided Tour is budget-friendly and takes you to the best attractions in a coach bus along with an English tour guide. It also includes the famous Elephant Rock in AlUla.
- If you love to see heritage sites like AlUla from above, this Hegra balloon ride is for you. Check out epic reviews of the Hegra balloon ride here.
- Hegra After Dark is also a fantastic way of exploring AlUla after sunset in a horse-drawn carriage and experiencing traditional cultural shows.
If you’re willing to splurge, go for a private tour that includes transportation in a vintage Land Rover. But remember that if there’s a sandstorm in Hegra, there is no protection in the Land Rover.
Best Time to Visit Hegra, AlUla
The best time to visit Hegra is during the cooler months, from October to April. The weather is pleasant during this period, making it ideal for outdoor exploration.
While Hegra is less crowded than other tourist destinations, visiting during weekdays or early mornings can provide a more intimate experience with fewer fellow travelers.
Consider timing your visit to coincide with cultural events or festivals in AlUla. These events offer unique insights into the region’s rich cultural heritage and provide opportunities to engage with the local community. Some of the best AlUla festivals are the Ancient Kingdoms Festival, Winter at Tantora, AlUla Arts Festival, and the Incense Road Program.
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