Oud vs Attar vs Perfume vs Bakhoor – Differences Demystified!
I live in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, and love to gift traditional Middle Eastern perfumes, including oud and attar, to friends and family.
For the longest time, I would always get confused between oud, attar, and bakhoor! And what was perfume doing between them all!!!
Are you also confused about which fragrance to buy in the Middle East? Should you pick some attar for yourself, local perfumes for your friends, and bakhoor for the home?
What about Oud? Why is that so special in the Middle East?
I will answer some of these commonly asked questions in this Guide about Fragrances and Perfumes of the Middle East. Let’s find out what oud, attar, perfume, and bakhoor are all about and what exactly sets them apart.
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Attar vs. Perfume
What is attar?
Image courtesy: Stanislav Sablin from Getty Images via Canva Pro
Attar (also spelled ittar, itr, or ottar) is a natural perfume oil extracted from flowers, herbs, spices, barks, animal extracts like musk, and other organic sources.
These oils are carefully distilled without any synthetic additives or alcohol, making them completely natural and ideal for those with sensitive skin.
Attar oils are highly concentrated, so just a dab on your wrist or neck can last all day.
Both Middle Eastern and South Asian countries like India have a long tradition of using attar in personal and religious rituals.
In India, these oils are generally known as attar or ittar. However, they are simply referred to as oils in the Middle East. If you browse the online collections of some famous perfume companies in the Middle East, such as Arabian Oud, they usually list them as oils, perfume oils, or oud oils (we will get to this in a bit).
What is perfume?
Perfume, on the other hand, combines fragrant oils (similar to those used in attar) with synthetic ingredients, including alcohol and other compounds, to create a vast range of fragrances.
While perfumes offer a wider array of scent profiles due to the mixing of synthetic elements, they are typically less concentrated than attars.
International brands like Dior, Chanel, YSL, and Gucci usually sell perfumes. Attar oils are generally available at local retailers and old souks in the Middle East.
Attar vs Perfume: Main Differences
- Attar is 100% natural, while perfume blends natural and synthetic ingredients like alcohol. So, attar may be a better option for people with sensitive skin.
- You need to apply the attar directly to the skin with a stick/dropper because it is an oil, whereas you can simply spray the perfume.
- Attars last significantly longer because they are undiluted.
What is Oud?
Oud, or oud oil, often referred to as “black gold,” is one of the most luxurious fragrance ingredients in the world.
Where does oud come from?
Oud oil is derived from the resinous wood of the Aquilaria tree, found primarily in Southeast and South Asia. But not every Aquilaria tree produces oud. The fragrant resin is formed only when the tree becomes infected with a particular type of fungus called Phialophora parasitica. The infection triggers the production of an aromatic resin called oud wood, also known as agarwood, to protect the plant.
Why is oud so expensive?
Only about 5–7% of Aquilaria trees get infected by this fungus, and can produce oud wood and, consequently, oud oil. One kg of oud wood produces as little as 1 ml of oud oil. Since the oud-producing Aquilaria tree is quite rare and the process of producing oud oil is both labor-intensive and time-intensive, oud oil costs a bomb. A 10 ml high-quality Oud bottle can cost up to USD 3,000.
How does oud smell?
The scent of oud is rich, warm, woody, and slightly earthy, making it highly sought-after for both attars and perfumes.
The smell of oud is deeply rooted in nature and may not appeal to everyone. I suggest trying some oud oil before buying a bottle for yourself or your friends. Dubai now has a Perfume Museum in the Al Shindagha District of the Old Town where you can actually smell oud. Go ahead and try it out there first and see if you like it.
Interesting facts about oud
- An interesting fact about oud is that it originates from the jungles of Southeast Asia and India yet is barely known in these regions. Most of it is shipped out to the Middle East, where it is one of the most revered and popular fragrances.
- Oud probably came to the Middle East via the ancient incense route and traveled as far as Egypt, where it was used in the embalming process of mummies. The Chinese and Vietnamese also used oud in antiquity.
- I have heard that Emiratis prefer Indian oud, whereas Saudis love the Cambodian variety. Do you know if that is true?
How is oud different from attar and perfume?
As you must have guessed, oud is one of the many raw materials used to produce attar and perfumes.
There are oud oils (or oud attars) and oud perfumes. Then, there are oud chips made from the resinous wood of the Aquilaria tree, which are often used as bakhoor, which is what our next section is all about.
History of Oud in the Middle East
The Middle East has a long history of perfume and incense use. Since antiquity, countries and cities of the Middle East have been on the Ancient Incense Route, trading exotic fragrances such as Frankincense and Myrrh from Oman and Yemen with the West.
However, the history of oud began a little later, I guess, when it was first used in China and Vietnam in the 3rd century. It was mostly used as incense.
The magical oud wood began to arrive in the Middle East via the incense and spice routes. Soon, the Arabs began to extract perfumed oud oil from the wood. By the 16th century, there was a bustling trade of oud in the Middle East.
What is Bakhoor?
Bakhoor, also known as Arabic incense, is a blend of wood chips soaked in fragrant oils (such as oud oil, rose, amber, and musk) and mixed with other natural ingredients like floral extracts and spices.
These chips are burned over charcoal or electric burners to release a rich, aromatic smoke often used to fragrance homes, clothing, and even hair.
The use of bakhoor is deeply ingrained in Middle Eastern culture. It’s commonly used during special gatherings, religious ceremonies, and even in daily rituals to create a warm, inviting atmosphere.
When shopping at the myriad souks in the Middle East or even at Global Village in Dubai, you will probably see vendors selling bags of wooden chips. These are bakhoor. You can smell them and buy individual varieties or combine them for a fragrance blend.
Where to buy Oud, Bakhoor, and Perfumes in the Middle East?
The best places to buy oud oil, attar, and bakhoor are the Middle Eastern bazaars or souks in every historic city.
The Spice Souk in Dubai, Al Maigliah Market in Riyadh, the Old Town in Jeddah, Khan el Khalili Market in Cairo, and Souk Waqif in Doha are some of the best places to get your stash of Middle Eastern fragrance. Book this guided tour of Dubai souks to learn all about the local fragrances.
You’ll also find a good collection od oud oil, bakhoor, and resins at the Global Village in Dubai.
Besides the old markets, several new Middle Eastern brands also offer oud oil, bakhoor, and perfumes. These maybe a little expensive but they are authentic. The most popular and reliable brands are Arabian Oud, Ajmal Perfumes, and Al Munawara.
Trust me, these unique Middle Eastern fragrances are one of the best souvenirs to buy when traveling in the region.
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